- Etruscan Volterra: three thousand years of history
- The Guarnacci Etruscan Museum
- The Roman Theatre and the Medici Fortress
- The Balze cliffs and breathtaking landscape
- How to Get There from Hotel La Magione
- Conclusion
There is a particular atmosphere in Volterra. Dark, dense, ancient. The Etruscan walls that still encircle the city, the gullies of the Balze crumbling downward, the grey alabaster stone that colours every facade: Volterra is a city that doesn't smile at you immediately, but when it opens up it captivates you forever. It is the kind of place you prefer to keep secret.
About 40 minutes from Poggibonsi, Volterra is one of the most authentic and uncrowded destinations in Tuscany. A day here is one of those experiences that changes the way you see the entire region.
Etruscan Volterra: three thousand years of history
Volterra was one of the twelve city-states of the Etruscan League, one of the most advanced powers of pre-Roman Italy. The Etruscan walls that still surround much of the city, dating from the 4th to 3rd century BC, are among the most imposing and best preserved in Italy.
The Porta all'Arco, the Etruscan arch at the base of the historic centre, is something that stops your breath: three thousand years of history concentrated in three stone heads, mysterious and impassive as time itself. Entering the city through that arch is already an act of reverence towards history.
The Guarnacci Etruscan Museum
The Guarnacci Etruscan Museum in Volterra is among the richest and most authentically moving Etruscan museums in Italy. The collection includes more than six hundred Etruscan cinerary urns, decorated with mythological and everyday scenes, along with weapons, jewellery and ceramics that tell the story of a sophisticated and fascinating civilisation.
The Urn of the Spouses, with an elderly couple lying on the lid gazing at each other with eternal tenderness, is one of the most moving pieces of Etruscan art. The Ombra della Sera (Evening Shadow), an elongated bronze figure, seems to have emerged from a surreal dream. Two hours here are worth an entire journey.
The Roman Theatre and the Medici Fortress
The Roman Theatre of Volterra, dating from the 1st century BC, is in excellent condition. The colonnade of the stage, the stone steps, the arches: everything evokes with powerful evocativeness Roman life two thousand years ago. In summer it hosts performances and concerts that use the historic setting to extraordinary atmospheric effect.
The Medici Fortress, still a maximum security prison today, commands the city from above with an austere and magnetic presence. The interior is not open to visitors, but its silhouette against the sky is an integral part of the Volterra landscape.
The Balze cliffs and breathtaking landscape
The Balze di Volterra are a unique geological spectacle. The white gullies that open beyond the Etruscan walls, where the rock gives way and the land slowly slides towards the Val di Cecina, create a lunar and unsettling landscape unlike anything else in Tuscany. Erosion has already swallowed part of an ancient medieval convent.
Watching the Balze at sunset, with those strange shapes lit by the low sun, is an experience of disturbing and wonderful beauty at the same time.
How to Get There from Hotel La Magione
From Hotel La Magione in Poggibonsi, Volterra is about 40 minutes by car along the SS68. A scenic road through vineyards and olive groves, which is already part of the experience. Car parks outside the walls are convenient and free in many areas. Volterra combines well with San Gimignano (15 minutes away) for a day among Tuscany's medieval villages.
Conclusion
Volterra is Tuscany in its most mysterious and profound shades. It lacks Siena's worldliness and San Gimignano's sweetness: it has something different, an ancient and irreducible character you feel in the air. If you seek Tuscany off the beaten track, Volterra is your answer.
Ready to experience Tuscany?Hotel La Magione is your perfect base.
Book your stayand let yourself be captivated by Tuscan magic.